When Raipur’s Science College grounds were converted completely to canvas pavilions for the third edition of the National Tribal Dance Festival earlier this month, about 50,000 thronged the entrance from 7 pm onwards. The entire city, it seemed, was finally off from work, enticed by the colourful 10-feet-high banners scattered around the city (featuring Chief Minister Bhupesh Baghel next to dancers from the Maria tribe with Bison-horned headgear), and ready to indulge in an evening of dance, music, and food.
On November 1, the first evening when the music boomed from the speakers at the entrance, it was suddenly interrupted by Baghel’s Chhattisgarhi speech, upsetting the crowd present. “This year’s festival is beginning on our state’s foundation day,” a government official said, as we entered the grounds on a mass of red carpets. The street leading up to the main venue was lit up with blue and yellow fairy lights on both sides, interspersed with more banners and advertisements of the festival. Finally, we entered through a twinkling arch and saw a smattering of tents issuing and swallowing huge crowds. The biggest marquee held more than 1500 tribal artistes, who’d arrived from around India and the world — including Mozambique, Mongolia, Tongo, Russia, Indonesia, Maldives, Serbia, New Zealand, and Egypt.